It’s awfully tempting to refer to it as lemony, but I think that sells this spice — a Middle Eastern staple — woefully short. Sumac, ground from a berry, is more than tart. It’s also a little floral, ...

Browse the spices at a well-stocked store or market, and the selection can feel overwhelming. It's easy to purchase what's necessary for a recipe, but discovering new spice uses feels much tricker.